Climbing in Nevado Alpamayo

One of the most well-known snow-capped mountains is located in Ancash and it is the Alpamayo. This mountain offers us many adventure routes for its ascent and some of the most stunning landscapes as a reward.

In the district of Santa Cruz, in the province of Huaylas, in Ancash is located the Alpamayo snow-capped mountain. It is part of the mountain range of the Cordillera Blanca and is located at an altitude of 5,947 meters above sea level.

Alpamayo is smaller than its neighboring peaks, but what sets it apart is its symmetry. Its southwest face features numerous gullies and has an average slope of 60 degrees.

Climate at the Alpamayo snow-capped mountain:

The climate at Alpamayo is dry, with a glacial cold. Its average annual temperature is approximately 10°C.

May - October: It is the best time to trek at Alpamayo, as the temperature is drier at the base of the snow-capped mountain, while it is icy cold at the summit all year round.

The route to reach Alpamayo:

From Huaraz, we take a bus towards the city of Caraz, which is about 67 km away. About 30 km further is Cashapampa, our second stop. And after an 11 km hike, we reach the base camp. Alpamayo has a total of about fourteen routes, but the three most well-known are those of the southwest face, which are:

• Ferrari: Although it is the shortest and most frequented route, it is one of the most dangerous due to the large seracs along almost the entire route.
• Vasco - Francesa: It is the alternative route to Ferrari, when it has too many seracs, and since 2004 it has been the most recommended.
• Directa Francesa: It is the longest route and is only ascended occasionally. It was opened by American climbers and named in honor of two French climbers who attempted to open the route two days before their death.

On the other hand, the most used ascent route is located on the southeast face and is considered the most difficult as it requires refined crampon and ice axe technique. From there, the icy walls of the north of Huandoy, Artesonraju, and Huascarán north stand out.

Technical Data of Alpamayo snow-capped mountain

What to bring for climbing at Alpamayo snow-capped mountain?

• High mountain boots.

• Thermal socks.

• Gaiters/Boot covers.

• Fleece or wool gloves.

• Padded mittens.

• Cold weather hat (fleece or other).

• Microfiber and thermal shirts.

• Fleece jacket.

• Padded anorak (down or synthetic).

• Waterproof windbreaker jacket.

• Climbing pants.

• Waterproof windbreaker pants.

• Waterproof layer.

• Altitude glasses, with side protection.

• Water bottle.

• Headlamp, with spare bulbs and batteries.

• Sunblock (for lips and skin).

• Personal first aid kit.

• High-altitude sleeping bag (down).

• Ice axe.

• Automatic crampons.

• Harness and helmet.

• Carabiners, Jumar ascender, and descender.